Inside one of the oldest traditions of medieval Tuscany: the Palio of Siena

In Siena July 2nd and August  16th there is the Palio, the world’s most famous bareback horse race. Some might think that it is organized for the many tourists who descend on the city for this occasion. Nothing could be more wrong! The Palio belongs to Sienese people DNA. It is and has always been this way.

The 10 horses have to enter a specific place where there are 2 ropes. The order to enter inside the ropes is determined by lot.  The 10th and last horse is left outside the ropes.  When he decides to enter the front rope falls down and the race starts.

This part of the race is called “la Mossa” and it is always the most difficult and complicated part,  because it takes a lot of time (last year more than 2 hours).

After a while people start to be overexcited, to shout, to give advice on how to do it, to be desperate because il Campo does not have  electric lighting and if it gets dark the race is postponed!

If you are not from Siena it is really hard to understand why that 10th horse does not enter the ropes  and it is a mystery why the race is stopped after the start (because it seems absolutely regular to you)!

You for sure will think: “Why is it so complicated to have 10 horses lined up!?  On the other side, if you  from Siena, you know very well that if the horse of your enemy is too well-positioned you don’t have to enter the ropes but instead you have to wait that specific moment when the most dangerous horses have a disadvantage position, even if people in the square have to wait for hours!

Finally the race starts, without you even noticing, you  almost don’t believe it anymore, you’re too tired  and exhausted from the heat and for standing for so long.  All of a sudden, without anybody saying a word the whole square  is in complete SILENCE!!!

 The race lasts 90 seconds, that the square passes without breathing. You are there and still continue to understand little about what is going on BUT you feel part of an only body that is moving  together and together is sharing  this emotion.

At the end all around you is joy and despair of those who won and who lost  the Palio, which is nothing but a banner dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It is very easy to go  to Siena from Florence because the two cities are very well connected and so it is really worth to dedicate a day to this ancient tradition to take home something you will remember for life.